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Originally by David Paul Gerber

(Also many parts written by Chris Sattler, with revisions, additions and updates to David’s original text)

 

The Montauk branch is the LIRR’s longest rail line.  At 117 miles from New York’s Pennsylvania station, the Montauk line stretches alongside Long Island’s south shore.  From Bay Shore, through Patchogue, and into the Hamptons to Montauk, there is plenty to see through your window.  The often scenic ride may take as much as 3.5 hours from New York City, but riders won’t feel it because of the often breakneck speed the train attains on mostly straight-aways.  The line operates in three sections:  1. From Babylon or Jamaica to Patchogue, where the bulk of the service is provided, from 4:30 AM to about 2 AM (although an overnight train from Montauk to Jamaica will make these stops on weekdays only).  2. Some trains run between Jamaica or Babylon and Speonk, which is sort of a “mini-terminal”. 3. From points east of Patchogue to the line’s end at Montauk, the line has service based on the season; additional weekend trains are added during the summer season.  That is the time the entire Hamptons area comes alive with the parties and summer house shares or rentals.  Trains departing from Jamaica station, have the option of using the Babylon branch or the Main Line spur from Hicksville to Babylon, bypassing Bethpage station.  Other trains begin/end at Babylon, with the transfer connection to the electric M-Series train there.  Because of the acquisition of new bi-level coaches in 2000, most platforms were renovated or converted to hi-level platforms.  Some other low usage stations were closed in 1998 to consolidate operations with the remaining nearby stations.  The Montauk branch is also home to the LIRR’s flagship (and most successful train service, ever), the Cannonball.  Departing every Friday at around 4 PM from Hunterspoint Ave station (plus an additional train on Thursdays, same time, during warm weather), the train makes a connection at Jamaica from Penn and Flatbush trains, then runs non-stop all the way to Westhampton, the first stop.  From Memorial Day weekend to Labor Day the Cannonball Fridays train is enhanced by an all-reserved Parlor Car service for an additional charge to the base Zone 14 fare (the train only makes Zone 14 stops), with special parlor cars used for this purpose.  A description of the Parlor Car service will be available this summer.

 

History

The Montauk line was a culmination of several jointly operated railroad companies that built different sections of the line.  In the late 1860’s the competing South Shore RR built the current line from Jamaica hub, along the Babylon branch (at grade, of course), to Patchogue only.  The LIRR main line had a spur from the current Greenport branch, about midway between Yaphank and Riverhead stations, to Eastport (between the current Mastic-Shirley and Speonk stations), before running east to Sag Harbor.  This spur is called the Manorville branch, and was still in use until 1939.  Some traces to the abandoned Manorville ROW are still visible if a walking hike out there can be attained in good weather.  After the competing railroads were consolidated to the LIRR, in 1879, a connection from Patchogue to Eastport was made (this would be the current line from Patchogue to Speonk.), and the final section from Bridgehampton to the historic Montauk station was built in 1895.  The section to Sag Harbor was also discontinued in 1939, although a 1900 station house at Sag Harbor station is still in use as a private business to this day.  

We start our trip by boarding our bi-level diesel train from Babylon, and leave for our first stop.  The stations covered in this section are from Bay Shore to Montauk.  For stations west of Bay Shore, please see the Babylon page  All stations use high-level platforms. 

 

Bay Shore: 2 tracks on 2 platforms, only station along Montauk Branch to use old style Hi-level platforms.  It got a high level platform already in 1984, long before all the stations east of Bay Shore got them around 1998, with the introduction of the new bi-level diesel coaches. There is an underpass in the center of the station that connects the east and westbound platforms and parking lots.  The main stationhouse is on the north side of the tracks, with a smaller enclosed shelter shed on the south side of the tracks. The station shed structure on the south side of the tracks was originally the freight house. The 1912 farm-like station house is on the north platform, and is the 3rd house for this station.  The Dutch Colonial stationhouse was built to have an apartment above for the station master who would live there with his/her family. There is parking on both sides. 

Islip 2 tracks, 2 platforms, parking on both sides with new platform (the appearance of these new platforms are dark green, complete with ramps for the disabled).   Before the raising of the low level platforms to the current high level platforms, Islip had very long station platforms running from street to street, and had multiple random metal sheds (bus stop like shelters) placed there in the 1960’s every so many feet. There is an interesting station house on the north side of the tracks just to the east of the North platform, because not only does it have a clock tower, but a replica of a classic LIRR banner is right below the clock itself.  The windmill arrow has a locomotive design on it.  This house looks restored to its original pre-war appearance, but actually is young by LIRR’s standards. In the 1960’s, when so many original Suffolk county stations were lost in the Goodfellow administration, the original ornate Islip depot was razed, and the current one built. The station house was built in 1963 and replaced an 1881 house. This beautiful renovation to the bland 60’s structure was done in the mid 1990’s. The original station depot was built on the south side in 1868. 

Club House:  (ABANDONED) station, first used in private service in 1868 to service the South Side Sportsmen’s Association, a private club.  Closed in 1897 

Great River Original station name was Youngsport until the current name changed to current station name in 1881.  Youngsport was originally for freight only, until later when it became Great River, and began picking up passengers. The first station house (on the south side of the tracks) was built in 1897 and was gutted by a 1943 fire, cause ironically by a passing G5 steam locomotive. A new masonry station house replaced it in the 1950’s, with fieldstone bases.  It was small.  It was heavily altered in the 1970’s to a waiting shed, but remained standing until the 1998 addition of the high level platforms.  The original wooden station shelter shed facing the original stationhouse that was on the north side of the tracks dates to 1900, and survived the fire in the 1940’s, and remained in it’s original location until the 1998 high level station platform project!  At that time, the old shelter was moved to the south side of the tracks, and placed perpendicular to the platforms, and is now used as a bus shelter.  It is one of two remaining such LIRR station shed structures know left on the LIRR. (The other is in Bellmore, beneath the now elevated tracks, also moved from its original position facing the tracks).  2 tracks, 2 platforms, parking on both sides.

Oakdale 2 tracks, 2 side platforms, parking on both sides, station house is this time on the south platform.  The station house is still standing since 1890, and was built by Thomas Vanderbilt, who had a large estate “Idle Hour” (now Dowling College), which was a wealthy showplace.  He couldn’t stand the fact that his wealthy guests had to get off at a wooden, old station, so he donated the $20,000 necessary to build the beautiful Oakdale stationhouse.  This is the 2nd station depot, the original station house opened in 1868.  Original low platforms are clearly visible just to the west of the current hi-level station.  Before 1998, Oakdale station had a wooden station shed on the north side of the tracks.  The Vanderbilt built Oakdale station is red brick, with an arched covered carriageway, and has red and white trim. Oakdale also has its old brick freight house structure, just west of the station area.

Sayville 2 tracks, 2 side platforms, parking on both sides, station house on south side.  Only station on Montauk branch to have an overpass.  The station house was built in 1906 and renovated in 2001.  The prior station house opened in 1868. The Sayville stationhouse has beautiful original diamond-framed window panes.  It has two extended canopies on either side of the main building.  Unfortunately, it’s beauty is somewhat obstructed on the track side, as the high level platforms were built right up against it in 1998, as well as a large, and obstructive overpass.  Its beauty from the plaza side is unmistakable though, and looks beautiful after its recent restoration.

At this point, the Montauk Branch becomes single tracked, with a second track only located in some of the stations which used to be used as freight sidings, and are also used in  some cases (such as in Mastic-Shirley) as passing sidings.

Bayport (ABANDONED) Closed in 1980, the station opened in 1869 at Bayport and Railroad Avenues.  In 1903, the original frame stationhouse was demolished, and moved to a new location between Snedecor and Oakwood Avenues, also on Railroad Avenue.  This move was because this is where the oyster and fisherman shippers, as well as the wealthy residents wanted it.   The 1903 Bayport stationhouse was a massive structure for what was always a somewhat lower use station.  This is perhaps because of the wealthy residents that used it.  The magnificent brick building had long canopies in railroad style on either side of the main building.  Unfortunately, it was Goodfellow razed in 1963-1964.  So many LIRR stationhouses were lost in 1963-1964.  But with even spectacular Pennsylvania Station falling in Manhattan the same year, the loss of these country depots was the least of the problems at the time.  Evidence of the old station location is readily apparent, in that Railroad Ave splits to a “median” area in the old Bayport station location, which was actually the old parking lot.  Also, a crescent shaped privet hedge remains at the old parking lot location, which is amazingly cared for to this day.  The hedge is the only aspect of the station area that still exists.

Blue Point (ABANDONED) Like Bayport, this station ceased operations in 1980, apparently for low patronage.  In fact, it is rumored that only one regular passenger still used Blue Point by that point. The original station opened in 1870.  By June of 1882, the railroad claimed it didn’t have enough business to remain open, and it was too close to Patchogue, and it abandoned the station stop. Blue Point’s residents were very angry about this, and it took them the rest of the decade, but by 1890, they collected money to reopen the station stop.  After another decade, they collected enough money to rebuild a station house in 1900.   This handsome building was demolished a half decade later, in 1951, and replaced with a nondescript brick station shed.   The whole Blue Point sage came full circle  by 1980, and almost 100 years after the railroad originally closed and abandoned Blue Point, it was abandoned a second time.  Again, the century old argument was that it was too close to Patchogue, and that it was low use.  It is rumored that only one regular passenger used Blue Point by its final days. Blue Point was located just south of the track, in what is now a paved clearing east of the Blue Point Avenue Railroad trestle.

Patchogue Parking, platform, bus stops and station house on south side, this is the terminal for most regular trains, they will use a relay track to the east of PD Tower.  The current station house, located on the south side of the track, opened in 1963 and has an ample waiting area; this is the 3rd station house.  Original station house opened as a shelter shed in 1869, and was replaced by the 2nd depot in 1888. The 1888 depot was a spectacular brick Victorian structure, and was IDENTICAL to the one that still stands in Sea Cliff on the Oyster Bay Branch.  Tragically, this beautiful building was razed in 1963, and it, and replaced by the  current “60’s design” station. On the track side the stationhouse has become completely obstructed and overpowered by the 1998 full high level platform and rare full covering canopy over the complete platform. There is only one platform, and used for bidirectional service on the same track.  There is a second track in the station area to the north that is used to store trains that begin at Patchogue.  It is also used as a passing siding for when through Montauk trains need to pass through on the main running track, but a train is needed soon after to begin its run at Patchogue.  Many trains terminate at Patchogue, instead of completing the trek to either Speonk or Montauk. To the east of Patchogue station, at grade crossing, is PD Tower.  This tower is noteworthy for the leaning appearance, as much as 10-15 degrees to the right facing the tower’s steps.  The tower is still standing since 1906 and underwent an interior renovation in the early 1970’s.  Until May 2006, Tower Operators used come out, with a long “reel” stick in hand and guide the top of the stick to the engineer as his train passes by the tower.  The conductor also picked up train orders in this manner. This was the only location on Long Island where “hooping” still took place. This was the most efficient way of relaying instructions to the crew on the train, at the time. Unfortunately, as of May 2006, PD operations ceased, and its interlocking is now remotely controlled

East Patchogue/Hagerman (ABANDONED) another station that was axed, due to the close proximity to the current Patchogue station.  The Hagerman depot was located east of Dunton Avenue at Oakdale Avenue in what is now known as “East Patchogue”. Service to this station was from 1890 to 1928 only.

Bellport (Originally Occumbobock, then Brewster Place short 1 car platform to the south, this station opened in 1882.  This station and Amagansett are the only 2 stations on the Montauk branch to have 1 car platforms.  Parking and platform is on south side only.  There is a second track north of the running track is an old freight siding, and is still occasionally used as a passing siding for freight trains, or to store maintenance of way equipment Bellport’s stationhouse was built in 1882, and was the only stationhouse building to ever stand at Bellport.  It lasted until 1963.  It was torn down and replaced with a metal shed.  In 1981, the metal station shed was replaced with a second “bus-stop” like shed, which lasted until 1998 when the long 14 car low level platform was removed and replaced with a one car high level platform.  Bellport was lucky, as it was on the chopping block in 1997 when the LIRR decided to abandon a few stations due to low ridership.  Bellport was one of only two that survived that wave of abandonments (Glen St on the Oyster Bay Branch was the other).  Community outcry at the closing was strong enough to convince the LIRR to keep the Bellport stop open.  At that time, the formerly dirt and gravel parking lot was paved, and ever since the renovation of the station area, Bellport’s ridership has been on the increase.

Mastic-Shirley In 1960, the LIRR decided to build a new station stop at William Floyd Parkway in Shirley, in the rapidly developing Shirley neighborhood.  It built the present small brick structure that exists today on the south side of the tracks.  There is a passing siding east of the station that is used for many train meets between eastbound and westbound trains to and from Montauk on the single running track.  At the time of the opening of the new station in Shirley in 1960, the LIRR abandoned the Mastic station a few miles to the east, and hyphenated the Mastic and Shirley town names in the new station in Shirley, which remains that way to this day, the only station on Long Island that boasts two town names in it’s official name. (Speonk-Remsenburg was another, but “Remsenburg” has been long since dropped).

Mastic (ABANDONED) (Originally Forge station)   First built in 1882 as Forge station, it was renamed to Mastic in 1893. This station was located at Mastic Road, and is still noticeable as large gravel clearing east of Mastic Road.  In 1960, the Mastic station-stop was abandoned, and stop was moved to the current location in Shirley, and the LIRR hyphenated the name of the new station in Shirley to make up for the abandoned Mastic station.

Center Moriches (ABANDONED) one of several stations that closed in 1998, the last station house opened in 1985.  The parking lot on the south side is all that remains from the station closing.  First opened in 1881. 

East Moriches (ABANDONED) closed in 1958, yet the brick station house is still intact and standing.  Previous station house opened in 1897 and burned down in 1936.   

Eastport (ABANDONED) (Originally Moriches station on the abandoned Sag Harbor branch in 1870).  The station was renamed to Eastport in 1881 and moved to its current location.  It was closed in 1958.  Soon after the closing, the station house was moved to a private location. At the old Eastport station location, there its old freight siding).  It is still occasionally used for freight.  Eastport was once the junction of the Eastport-Manorville branch that was the original route of the LIRR to Sag Harbor before the LIRR connection was made in the 1880’s to the old South Side Railroad at Patchogue.

Speonk (Also named Remsenburg from 1895-1897) this is the terminal for a couple of trains; there is a relay track and small yard to the east of the station.  All facilities are on south side. The first station house opened in 1870 and was replaced by a second one due to a 1901 fire.  That second house closed in 1958 for railroad use and is in use today as a restaurant, with some table service. Trains continued to stop in front of the old station until 1998 when the high level platforms were moved to the west of the original station, and west of the grade crossing.  Speonk is sort of a mini-terminal, with some Montauk branch runs that go further that Patchogue terminate here, but don’t go all the way to Montauk.  There is a diesel yard east of the station where many of the diesels are stored, and there is also a wye there for turning trains.  Some trains that terminate or begin in Patchogue deadhead between Patchogue and Speonk to this yard.

Westhampton  all facilities to the south side.  First station house built in 1870 and replaced in 1905 by a 2nd house.  The 2nd station house survived a fire and underwent a 1995 renovation.  This station house is to the west of the platform. 

Quogue (ABANDONED) 3 station houses were built at this location, in 1875, 1882 and 1905 respectively.  The 2nd house was moved to a private location and the 3rd was torn down in 1964.  This station didn’t make the 1998 cut to continue service and was abandoned at this point. 

Hampton Bays (Originally named Good Ground)  the named changed to current station name in 1922 to avoid confusion with the street (Good Ground Road) which runs to the north of the current station.  All facilities are to the north. There is a freight siding within the station area. There were 3 station houses at this location.  The first depot in 1871 was destroyed by a fire in 1873.  A year later, the 2nd station house opened and lasted until 1913.  The 3rd depot opened in 1913 and closed on 1958, later razed in 1964, yet another victim of the Goodfellow administration. 

After leaving Hampton Bays, we cross the Shinnecock Canal Bridge, a drawbridge similar in design to one of the 2 Rockaway subway line Bridges crossing North and South Channels.  Suffolk Downs (ABANDONED)  Opened 1907, at Peconic Rd, and closed in 1927.  Station house moved to private property in 1923.  This was a flag stop for a golf course.

Shinnecock Hills (ABANDONED)  Opened 1887, closed in 1932.  After the closure, the station house was converted to a United States Post Office, and later sold to private interests.  This structure is still standing, and used as a private residence. It was briefly reopened when the U.S. Open Golf tournament was played nearby- complete with temporary high platform.

Golf Grounds (later Southampton College-LIU) (ABANDONED)  opened 1907, closed in 1932.  Station house moved to private property after the closure. This was a flag stop when it was Good Grounds, another golf course stop. When Southampton College wanted a train stop, the Good Grounds location was later reopened by Southampton College, L.I.U. Campus station.  Because of the close proximity to the nearby Southampton station, it closed during the 1998 ax of several stations. 

Southampton  all facilities on south side.  First station house opened in 1871 and replaced by the current depot in 1902.   This station has a magnificent station building, with large canopies on either side.  It has been beautifully renovated.  It is one of two stations that uses oyster shells in its stucco exterior walls (the other being Oyster Bay’s old stationhouse).  A severely dilapidated freight house still stands on the north side of the tracks, along the 2nd freight siding in this station area.

Water Mill   (ABANDONED) Station house is on the south side of the track and service began in 1875 and replaced by a new house in 1903 and closed sometime in the 1940’s, this site is currently in use as a restaurant.  Service to this station ended in 1968. 

Bridgehampton  All facilities to the south.  Opened in 1870, the first station house was destroyed by an 1884 fire; it was replaced by a 2nd house soon after that.  The 2nd station house closed in 1958 and later demolished in 1964.  There is no station house currently at this location.  

Wainscott (ABANDONED) Station houses were built in 1898 and 1915, the latter moved to private property after the station closed in 1936. 

East Hampton   All facilities to the south side, Original station house built in 1895 and is still standing.  The stationhouse is identical to Amagansett’s original 1895 depot that had been demolished.

Amagansett One car short platform to the south,  An 1895 freight station directly to the opposite of the station (to the left in the direction we are traveling) sits there to this day.  There is a shelter shed on the platform, it was built in 1965.  Original station house built in 1895 and replaced due to a 1910 fire.  That 2nd station house closed in 1958 and demolished in 1964.

Montauk  we finally arrived at our destination after 3 plus hours on the rails.  New hi-level island platform sits to the west of the old low platform that is still there (as a sidewalk).  Gravel parking to the north, LIRR yard and mobile office to the south of the current platform.  I myself was walking on the RR tracks instead of using the low platform, just for the feel or “working on the railroad”.  The first station house opened in 1895.  The 2nd house is built next to the end of the stub track at the yard (I was not able to find this house because I had only a 30 minute layover, it should still be there).  The 3rd and current station house (built in 1942) sits to the end of the bumper block of the low platform, is now used as a private art business and museum.  The waiting bench in front of the white house, and facing the track, is left intact.  Taxi service is usually identified as purple cars or vans and will take you to the Montauk Lighthouse and State Park, a 15 minute ride from the station, or anyplace with Montauk.  Breathtaking views of the landscape can be taken in while at Montauk station, among them a mansion sits at the crest of a hill, facing east.   

Note by David Gerber: On a scale of 1 to 5, I clearly give it six strong stars.  This was my first time out to Montauk, and I loved the very fast ride that the 3 hour trip time sure didn’t feel like it.  The station houses are aided by new platforms and the scenery changes often.  Sit back, relax, and look out your window.  Don’t buckle up; you won’t need then for this white-knuckle ride.

 

Line Report Card

Item Grade
Water Views 5
Other Scenery-Mountains, valleys, etc. 5
Bridge Crossings 5
Station Design Station Houses 4
Structure type (el, embankment, surface, cut, etc) 5
Artwork 3
Ambiance (Appeal) 6
High speed running 6
Rail Action (Curves, squeals, rail rhythm) 5
Length of Ride 6

Final Grade 50

(Average of above items) 5